The Witches of Zugarramurdi

By Georgina Howard, Pyrenean Experience Zugarramurdi is a rustic Basque village, snuggling in the foothills of the western Pyrenees. While the name Zugarramurdi is quite innocent and means “hill of elm trees”, the village is nowaday far better known for its caves and witches than for its hills and elms, because this is the site of the most brutal…

Where every house has a name

We race down the mountain on the narrow single track. Victor in the front and me on his heels, trying to keep my balance, focus and speed. 2 minutes later, we’re on the Plazaola, a former railway track turned into a 44 km greenway through the Navarese Pyrenees and 10 minutes later, we’re back in Leitza.…

The Art of Pintxos

From Donostia (Basque for San Sebastián) to Iruña (Basque for Pamplona), in every posh bar or local tavern, they’re lined up in the bar. Some more lavishly decorated than others, but all with the same purpose: to satisfy the small or big appetite. Maybe even in a happy marriage with some local wine. Pintxos! Related to…

Bayonne – much more than ham

Famed for its ham, luckily Bayonne has much more to offer. The old, charming town is set by the banks of the lazy river Nive and has kept its medieval charm while some of the glitter of neighbouring Biarritz has stimulated the number of tourists visiting Bayonne and discovering this charming city. The houses to the Nive are…