On the Camino

There is a saying, that the Camino to Santiago begins at your doorstep. That was certainly true in medieval times, when pilgrims travelled from all over Europe on foot to Santiago de Compostela and back.

For us, it began in Pamplona. We got up early in the morning and drove westwards from Pamplona – while all the San Fermines were probably still sleeping. We wanted to follow the Camino to Santiago de Compostella as much as possible. Driving the car cannot even come close to the Camino experience, but it had the advantage of taking us quickly to the highlights along the way.

Our first stop was Puente de la Reina, a beautiful bridge from the 11th century. We really felt the presence of history there! Some peregrinos – pilgrims destined for Santiago de Compostella – were met with the friendly “Buen Camino”.Driving through the vineyards of Rioja, we went southwest to Burgos, and I spent 7€ to enter Burgos Cathedral. I’m usually bothered by paying money to enter a house of prayer, but I was handed a free audioguide and the tour was quite extensive and well put together.

I spent an hour walking on marble, that thousands have walked on before me and thought my contribution towards maintaining the cathedral was fair.

: The entrance fee for the cathedral was 7€ but worth the money

: The tour of the cathedral was quite extensive and well made

: The charming cloisters are a quiet haven in the middle of the city

: I spent an hour walking on marble that thousands have walked on before me

: While the cathedral is Gothic, the Golden Staircase is Renaissance

: They say the devil’s in the detail!

: Incredible how a material so hard can look so soft

We ended our day in another historical structure – The Parador San Marcos in León. We were grateful and humble to stay here, in such historical settings. To be able to walk in the quiet cloisters in the evening with the small bats fluttering around the inner courtyard. To sleep in an old convent, with a view to a small park and to the sound of peacocks mijauving. To feast in a breakfast so grand, that you’ll drink your glass of cava and feel grateful for these experiences. Wow!

Paradores are the Spanish government’s way of protecting the old, historic buildings – by turning them into luxury hotels. Many of them used to be monasteries and castles. As time progressed and the number of monks, nuns as well as aristocrats dwindled, the large, historical buildings became empty.

Today, there are 96 Paradores all over Spain, which means that you have a lot of unique hotels to choose from.